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![]() In Search of the Zoroastrians Udvada |
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Home | Rare Findings | Vistor's comments | Iran: Those that are still Parsi | Rituals: Death Ceremonies | Bombay : Land of Parsis | Ahriman | History | Photo Album | Specials | Generation Next : Parsis around the world | Rites of Passage | Parsis | J.R.D Tata | Jamsetji Nusserwanji Tata | Navjote | Guestbook | Ancient Aryans | Daily Prayers | 200 short questions & answers: Part I | 200 Short Questions & Answers : Part II | Darius- The Great | Cyrus- The Great | Xerxes | Zoroaster | Zarathushtra and His life | Ahura Mazda | Audio Gallery | Language | Fire Temples | Persepolis | Festivals | Parsi Anthem | Recipes | Contact Me | Tribute- My Papa | Links | Ancient Iran | Yazd | Pearl of the Desert | Among the Zoroastrians- Exclusive | Avesta | Ceremonies | Articles | Udvada | Sarees- Parsi Clothing- Part 1 | Parsi Weddings | Famous Zoroastrians | Misc | The Holy Fire | Faravahar | Calendar
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State Gujarat
Distance 206 km N of Mumbai Journey Time By rail 3 hrs 15 mins, By road 4 hrs Location On the palm-fringed coast of S Gujarat Route NH8 from Mumbai to Vapi Juntion via Manor, Charoti Naka, Talasari and Bhilad; district road to Udvada A stranger exploring the narrow lanes
of Udvada on a hazy Gujarati afternoon could well find himself wondering whether the rattling contraption that ferried him
into town was an autorickshaw or a time machine. For this pastoral enclave, dotted with storybook cottages, slumbering goats
and whitewashed walls, seems separated by many decades from the concrete-and-cacophony hell of nearby Vapi. But this coastal
town in Gujarat is about much more than leafy lanes and little houses with graceful eaves.
At the heart of the town, stands the Iranshah Atash Behram, the most important spiritual centre for Zoroastrians the world over. And whether they have just gotten married, started a business or bought a new car, hordes of Parsi worshippers from Mumbai to Montreal make their way to this sleepy town on Gujarat’s sublime southern coast to pay their respects to the 1,280-year-old holy fire enshrined within the sacred Atash Behram. The Parsis are very protective about Udvada because the Iranshah is believed to be their oldest consecrated fire. The holy flames, which blazed in Iran were stamped out by religious oppression, so today even the Zoroastrians of Yezd and Hormuz make pilgrimages to this otherwise inconsequential town for their fire. Of course, Udvada is not entirely immune to change, and only about a hundred Parsis continue to live here. Efforts are, however, being made to have the town listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site and to counter the invasion of asbestos roofs and RCC monstrosities. See and do
Udvada is a tiny town and if you are a brisk walker, you could probably cover every single street in about an hour. If, however, you like to stroll on the beach, inhale the briny air and peer into porches, you will have a full weekend. Iranshah Atash Behram: Although the Iranshah
Atash Behram is a monumental structure, it is virtually hidden by whitewashed walls and a protective ring of houses. While
the fire temple itself is out of bounds for non-Zoroastrians, the little streets, the sandalwood-sellers and all the hustle
in the vicinity are fascinating. Unchanging streets: Much of the fabric
of old Udvada is still intact and visitors can spend a wonderful evening peering into Faredoon Cottage and Sodawaterwala Dharamshala,
swapping ‘saibjis’ with Mehli Uncle and Shirin Mai, and reliving a bygone age. Where to
eat
Courtsey: Mid Day Newspaper
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© 2004-2010 All
Rights Reserved.
In Search of
the Zoroastrians Made by Jenny Desai
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